Outsiders as Drawn by an Outsider: Jo Brocklehurst and London After Dark

Jo Brock­le­hurst moved through London’s under­ground as both a wit­ness and accom­plice of life on the fringes of cul­ture, sketch­ing punks, goths, club kids, and club­bers with uncom­pro­mis­ing empa­thy. Decades lat­er, her draw­ings are scat­tered, near­ly unseen, and uncan­ni­ly ahead of their time.

For more than forty years, a sin­gle artist pro­duced an extra­or­di­nary record of life at the edges of main­stream soci­ety in a man­ner and scale no oth­er artist attempt­ed. Punks, fetishists, dancers, actors, drag per­form­ers, musi­cians, club kids, anar­chists, and night crea­tures of every descrip­tion passed through her line. Yet despite the pro­lif­ic nature and orig­i­nal­i­ty of the work, Jo Brock­le­hurst nev­er became a house­hold name.

Her draw­ings sur­face spo­rad­i­cal­ly in gal­leries and auc­tion rooms, while much of her out­put remains scat­tered in pri­vate hands, stor­age box­es, and unre­solved estates. None are on per­ma­nent muse­um dis­play. Those who knew her insist she was years ahead of her time.

Jo Brock­le­hurst moved through Lon­don like a phan­tom. In night­clubs thick with smoke and strobe light, in Soho strip joints, in the Blitz Club at the height of New Roman­tic excess, in anar­chist punk squats, in fetish balls where latex and steel flashed under ultra­vi­o­let lamps, a tall woman in a blonde wig and stacked dark glass­es stood qui­et­ly in the cor­ner draw­ing, her paper bare­ly vis­i­ble in the dark recess­es of the clubs.

Peo­ple remem­ber the dis­guise before they remem­ber the face. They remem­ber the huge sheets of paper, the pas­tels, the speed of her hand. Often they did not real­ize they had been seen until weeks lat­er, when some­one pro­duced a draw­ing in which they appeared sharp­er, stranger, and more essen­tial than they had ever looked in a mir­ror. “I don’t ana­lyze my rea­sons for paint­ing my sub­jects,” she said. “I just feel instinc­tive­ly that I want to paint a par­tic­u­lar per­son; it is a com­pul­sion.”

The com­pul­sion stemmed from a life­long inter­est in peo­ple and their appear­ances. Not con­tent to mere­ly present her­self in an uncon­ven­tion­al way, she sought to bring out the over­looked beau­ty of oth­ers at the edges of main­stream soci­ety through her life­long career as an artist. How­ev­er, she her­self was infa­mous­ly secre­tive about her life, opt­ing to present her­self through her out­ward appear­ance rather than her back­ground.

What is gen­er­al­ly accept­ed is that Jo (Josephine) Blanche Brock­le­hurst was born on August 6, 1935 and died on Jan­u­ary 29, 2006. She entered the world under cir­cum­stances she would spend a life­time obscur­ing. Her moth­er was a Lon­don house­keep­er. Her birth cer­tifi­cate named no father. It lat­er became known that she was the ille­git­i­mate child of an Eng­lish moth­er and an unknown senior Sri Lankan polit­i­cal fig­ure “who had his face on a stamp.” Even close friends remained unaware of her mixed her­itage. She nev­er revealed her exact age, her spe­cif­ic ances­try, and treat­ed ques­tions about her past as irrel­e­vant. What mat­tered was the work.

Known as Josie to her fam­i­ly, she grew up in Dorset with her moth­er and aunt and was evac­u­at­ed to rel­a­tives in Cheshire dur­ing the Sec­ond World War. Though born and lat­er dying in Hamp­stead, she guard­ed the facts of her ear­ly life with remark­able con­sis­ten­cy. Friends lat­er recalled that she nev­er felt entire­ly Eng­lish and expe­ri­enced prej­u­dice from an ear­ly age. Artist Patri­cia Buck­ley described a walk up Pic­cadil­ly dur­ing which she com­ment­ed on how Eng­lish Brock­le­hurst looked. Brock­le­hurst replied, “Oh, I like to pre­tend.” She spoke in a refined accent often com­pared to Joan­na Lum­ley.

In life she was con­sid­ered strik­ing­ly beau­ti­ful, a fact that com­pli­cat­ed her rela­tion­ship with the world. Tall, poised, and intense­ly self con­scious, she often con­cealed her appear­ance beneath wigs, hats, and sun­glass­es, often worn in mul­ti­ple pairs at once. Friends believed the dis­guise was part­ly a reac­tion to the prej­u­dice she had faced both as a young woman and as a per­son of mixed British and Sri Lankan her­itage. It also cre­at­ed dis­tance. Brock­le­hurst could observe with­out being observed.

Her artis­tic pre­coc­i­ty was evi­dent ear­ly. Fol­low­ing years spent at Wool­wich Poly­tech­nic School for Girls in Lon­don (believed to have been fund­ed by her absent father), she entered St Martin’s School of Art short­ly before her four­teenth birth­day on a junior schol­ar­ship scheme, an exper­i­men­tal pro­gram that rec­og­nized excep­tion­al tal­ent at a young age.

At St Martin’s she learned to draw with extra­or­di­nary speed and pre­ci­sion, study­ing under tutors includ­ing Fred­die Gore, John Minton, Eliz­a­beth Suter, and Muriel Pem­ber­ton. Suter’s life draw­ing class­es were par­tic­u­lar­ly influ­en­tial. She hired uncon­ven­tion­al per­form­ers, dressed in eccen­tric out­fits, to pose as draw­ing mod­els. The the­atri­cal­i­ty of these fig­ures res­onat­ed deeply with Brocklehurst’s sen­si­bil­i­ties. It was here where she honed her eye for pro­por­tions and anato­my, learn­ing to pro­duce work at a pace con­sid­ered noth­ing less than remark­able for her lev­el.

Jo Brocklehurst Punk Fashion Illustration
The Night After, 1976

Those that knew her recalled she arrived at St Martin’s already pos­sess­ing a high­ly indi­vid­ual style. She could appear in out­fits extreme even by art school stan­dards. One tutor recalled her attend­ing class wear­ing two pairs of Welling­ton boots at the same time, with one pair worn inside the oth­er.

She attract­ed atten­tion upon enter­ing a room, then retreat­ed into silence, hid­ing her eyes behind dark, over­sized sun­glass­es (some­times up to three pairs at a time, even while draw­ing), long jet-black hair or a blonde wig, and wide-brimmed hat pulled over her head, her beau­ty revealed only for a moment when­ev­er she raised her head to glance at the mod­el she was draw­ing. Fel­low stu­dents gath­ered around her draw­ings, while Brock­le­hurst con­tin­ued to remain shy and unas­sum­ing. When she left the stu­dio, they whis­pered her name in hushed admi­ra­tion.

Jo Brocklehurst Punk Fashion Illustration
Unti­tled, 1979

Her child­hood tal­ent was not con­fined to draw­ing. She was an excep­tion­al ath­lete, a mem­ber of the Sel­so­nia Ladies Ath­let­ic Club and the High­gate Har­ri­ers, where she played at the nation­al lev­el in shot put and rep­re­sent­ed Eng­land in dis­cus throw­ing. Rel­a­tives lat­er said Olympic com­pe­ti­tion would have been with­in reach had she pur­sued sport. Instead she chose art, though she retained an ath­let­ic lifestyle through­out her life and cycled dai­ly through the hills of Hamp­stead.

She began her career as an illus­tra­tor for var­i­ous fash­ion mag­a­zines and was briefly involved with­in bohemi­an Lon­don cir­cles. This brush with the lives of uncon­ven­tion­al artists cou­pled with her expo­sure to the meth­ods of Suter implant­ed in her a pas­sion to draw­ing peo­ple from uncon­ven­tion­al walks of life, with­out regard for whether it would affect her rep­u­ta­tion as an artist or her prospects in the com­mer­cial world, her posi­tion as a woman artist in the field of art was unin­hib­it­ed by fears of how she would be per­ceived, which formed a core part of her char­ac­ter as both a cre­ative and an indi­vid­ual.

Leav­ing fash­ion behind, she lat­er reject­ed the label “illus­tra­tor,” pre­fer­ring painter or draughtsper­son. After fin­ish­ing her edu­ca­tion at St Martin’s, she con­tin­ued attend­ing cos­tume life draw­ing class­es in the fash­ion depart­ment and main­tained close ties to the school for decades, lat­er teach­ing and guest lec­tur­ing to future gen­er­a­tions of design­ers, still in her flam­boy­ant ensem­bles.

Sue Dray, now a course leader of BA Fash­ion Illus­tra­tion at the Lon­don Col­lege of Fash­ion, was once a stu­dent that was a mem­ber of the class­es taught by Brock­le­hurst in the 70s, recall­ing her as “a small woman behind huge draw­ings … get­ting exact­ly what she want­ed from the mod­el. She was very much a fem­i­nist” she con­tin­ues, “with a strong opin­ion about women’s roles as artists and how we were rec­og­nized. I think that’s why the draw­ings were so bru­tal. We weren’t going to roman­ti­cize any­thing about the mod­els. It was about extract­ing char­ac­ter. She was work­ing in a peri­od when the sub­cul­ture was still the sub­cul­ture.”

Still, as fas­ci­nat­ed as peo­ple were in how she looked, Brock­le­hurst was equal­ly fas­ci­nat­ed by how oth­ers looked. “The streets are full of mar­vel­lous peo­ple, you’ve only got to look.”, Brock­le­hurst once said. Nat­u­ral­ly, she drew con­stant­ly and treat­ed delay, bore­dom, and tran­sit as oppor­tu­ni­ties rather than incon­ve­niences. She did not mind sit­ting for hours on a stalled bus because she always car­ried paper and pens, using the time to sketch who­ev­er and what­ev­er unfold­ed around her. She cap­tured places, fleet­ing sit­u­a­tions, and the faces of strangers with a rapid, deci­sive line that con­veyed move­ment and char­ac­ter in sec­onds. Each day she left home with the spe­cif­ic inten­tion of draw­ing, often with a sub­ject already in mind, mov­ing through the city with the qui­et focus of some­one work­ing rather than mere­ly observ­ing.

From the 1950s onward she drew in clubs and music venues. In the 1960s she sketched jazz musi­cians includ­ing George Mel­ly. Dur­ing these years her inter­est in fash­ion illus­tra­tion gave way to a fas­ci­na­tion with nightlife and sub­cul­ture. Dressed in black, face hid­den behind Cut­ler and Gross sun­glass­es, she worked in Soho strip clubs and jazz dives, cre­at­ing all of her por­traits on site main­ly using crayons or pas­tels on large sheets of paper.

By the late 1970s she began the work that would go on to cement her rep­u­ta­tion as a tru­ly ground­break­ing illus­tra­tor. Brock­le­hurst had become a famil­iar but dis­creet pres­ence at the Blitz Club in Covent Gar­den, epi­cen­ter of the New Roman­tic move­ment. The Blitz Kids com­pet­ed in extrav­a­gance, gen­der flu­id styling, and the­atri­cal self inven­tion, often com­pet­ing to see who would show up in the most out­landish or intri­cate out­fits. “She said it wasn’t just the clothes,” accord­ing to cura­tor Olivia Ahmad, “It was more than anthro­po­log­i­cal. She had an empa­thy with out­siders. It was a feel­ing out of human­i­ty.”

Although she was often con­fined to the dark cor­ners of the Blitz Club, she was imme­di­ate­ly rec­og­niz­able to her 70s style black vel­vet jack­et, wig, and shades worn inside. If that was­n’t enough, Brock­le­hurst was said to have made her entrance to the clubs by rolling in shop­ping carts full of sketch­books, rolls of paper, and draw­ing mate­ri­als, cap­tur­ing elab­o­rate cos­tumes, metal­lic fab­rics, ani­mal prints, neon make­up, spiky hair, and most impor­tant­ly, their care­ful­ly staged pos­es. “I drew these char­ac­ters because I saw them around the streets near where I live and I thought they looked won­der­ful,” Brock­le­hurst said. “I felt that they under­stood very well what was going on in the world, what was in it for them.”

Brock­le­hurst encour­aged her sub­jects to adopt provoca­tive pos­es, unashamed and eager to be seen. Her draw­ings reg­is­ter their con­fi­dence as they moved beyond social expec­ta­tions, exper­i­ment­ing with sex­u­al­i­ty and gen­der pre­sen­ta­tion in ways that defied con­ven­tion. Their styling and pos­ture reflect delib­er­ate, inven­tive choic­es that turned alien­ation into self-def­i­n­i­tion with­in a cul­ture and time that often met dif­fer­ence with sus­pi­cion.

Her draw­ings from the late 1970s and ear­ly 1980s remain her most rec­og­nized works. Dur­ing this peri­od, her sub­jects includ­ed local celebri­ties such as Blitz Club cabaret and New Roman­tic duo James Bid­dle­combe and Eve Fer­ret to glob­al­ly-rec­og­nized fig­ures such as Siouxsie Sioux, Boy George, Marc Almond, the per­for­mance impre­sario Philip Salon, and dancers from the com­pa­ny of famous chore­o­g­ra­ph­er Pina Bausch in Berlin. Notably, many of her por­traits were of Isabelle Brick­nall, her life­long friend, muse, and col­lab­o­ra­tor.

The most reveal­ing insight into Brocklehurst’s life and work­ing meth­ods comes from Brick­nall, but Brock­le­hurst would not reveal her age even to her through­out their rela­tion­ship. “She saw her­self as time­less and age­less,” Brick­nall recalls. Before they offi­cial­ly met, Brick­nall was at Not­ting­ham Trent study­ing her MA in fash­ion and tex­tiles, with the intent on becom­ing a design­er, where she encoun­tered Brock­le­hurst as a vis­it­ing teacher of fash­ion illus­tra­tion.

Brick­nall also remem­bered Brock­le­hurst as an impos­ing pres­ence in the class­room: tall, beau­ti­ful, with an intense gaze, strict about dis­ci­pline and silence, and insist­ing stu­dents learn the pow­er of con­cen­tra­tion. She dis­cour­aged small sketch­pads, urg­ing stu­dents to use wall­pa­per lin­ing paper so their draw­ings could expand phys­i­cal­ly and ener­get­i­cal­ly.

The two first inter­act­ed at length in the ear­ly 1980s through their mutu­al friend, the teacher and fash­ion illus­tra­tor Col­in Barnes, who would do work for cou­ture shows. The strong-fea­tured Brick­nall was mod­el­ling in an extrav­a­gant Chris­t­ian Lacroix tweed cou­ture out­fit when Brock­le­hurst arrived for tea and, cap­ti­vat­ed by her appear­ance, insist­ed on draw­ing her, telling him “he had to share”.

Barnes, slight­ly frus­trat­ed, pro­posed they sketch her simul­ta­ne­ous­ly. Accord­ing to Brick­nall, Barnes’ ren­der­ing made her look like “the epit­o­me of grace and ele­gance”, while Brocklehurst’s cap­tured some­thing more volatile and psy­cho­log­i­cal, “like I’d just escaped from an asy­lum.” Brick­nall loved both images, not­ing that Brock­le­hurst seemed intent on reveal­ing the woman with­in the clothes rather than the gar­ments them­selves.

Jo Brocklehurst Punk Fashion Illustration
Por­trait of Val Dray­ton and Lou Chal­lice, 1981

Barnes, a lec­tur­er at the Roy­al Col­lege of Arts, St Mar­tins, and Not­ting­ham Trent, worked togeth­er with Brock­le­hurst while she was involved in the fash­ion illus­tra­tion depart­ment. Their con­nec­tion deep­ened when Brick­nall moved to Lon­don after com­plet­ing her stud­ies in Not­ting­ham, where Barnes lec­tured and Brock­le­hurst occa­sion­al­ly cov­ered class­es.

Brick­nall went on to work in the fash­ion indus­try with design­ers includ­ing Zan­dra Rhodes and devel­oped a mul­ti­dis­ci­pli­nary prac­tice span­ning tex­tiles, glass, steel, film, pho­tog­ra­phy, and per­for­mance. This shared cre­ative range drew the two togeth­er. Brick­nall mod­elled her own exper­i­men­tal designs while Brock­le­hurst drew them; they col­lab­o­rat­ed on exhi­bi­tions and art projects; Brick­nall lat­er assist­ed in archiv­ing Brocklehurst’s work. They vis­it­ed clubs togeth­er and main­tained a cre­ative part­ner­ship that last­ed until Brocklehurst’s death. “It was so great to meet some­one who you could real­ly trust, espe­cial­ly anoth­er woman; she became some­thing of a men­tor. She had so much ener­gy and dri­ve and was just so much fun to be around. We’d go on lots of adven­tures and get into lots of trou­ble togeth­er.” she recalls of Brock­le­hurst.

Brick­nall empha­sized Brocklehurst’s relent­less dri­ve, com­pelled to cre­ate rather than to cul­ti­vate a mar­ket. She sold work only when nec­es­sary, often to finance trav­el. “She didn’t give a shit about impress­ing peo­ple,” Brick­nall said. “Her sketch­books were like her diaries. She drew every sin­gle day. She was dri­ven to cre­ate. I think there are a lot of great artists that can slip through the net because they’re not all about the cash. The only time she’d sell stuff would be because she need­ed the mon­ey to facil­i­tate a trip. She was the real deal. She was extra­or­di­nary.”

One of the few who could keep up with Brock­le­hurst’s relent­less out­put, she fol­lowed her to the places where she pro­duced much of her most famous work. Brock­le­hurst’s non-judge­men­tal and empa­thet­ic atti­tude won her an audi­ence with many dif­fer­ent peo­ple on the alter­na­tive side of cul­ture and nightlife. “She was draw­ing every kind of scene,” Isabelle Brick­nall recalls.

In the 1960s, Jo Brock­le­hurst occurred after she moved into an artist’s stu­dio at 12 West­bere Road in West Hamp­stead where she would remain until the end of her life. It was here where she would piv­ot to cap­tur­ing one of the most mem­o­rable scenes of her career. The mod­est North Lon­don address and its sur­round­ings became both a work­ing space and a point of qui­et con­ver­gence for sub­cul­tures mov­ing through the city. By the ear­ly 1980s the street had become an unlike­ly over­lap between Hamp­stead domes­tic calm and DIY dis­or­der, in the form of an anar­cho-punk squat­ter scene qui­et­ly devel­op­ing on the same street.

One of the fig­ures orbit­ing this scene was zine edi­tor Tony Dray­ton, who arrived in Lon­don from Cum­ber­nauld, Scot­land in April 1977 after edit­ing the ear­ly punk pub­li­ca­tion Ripped and Torn. His life moved between Lon­don, Paris, and Ams­ter­dam and includ­ed jobs as var­ied as fire eat­ing. After a peri­od spent liv­ing in var­i­ous squats, in the fall of 1979 Tony and his sis­ter Val, who had joined him in the city a year before, met a group of punks in West Hamp­stead, includ­ing Eve (Car­ol Mills), for­mer part­ner of Adam Ant (Stu­art God­dard), and bassist Kevin Mooney, lat­er of Adam and the Ants.

Jo Brocklehurst Punk Fashion Illustration
Tony and Val at Jo Brock­le­hurst’s pri­vate exhi­bi­tion, 1980s

They were offered an emp­ty flat at 33 Sher­riff Road, part of a house run by the West Hamp­stead Hous­ing Asso­ci­a­tion. The house­hold includ­ed Andi and Ross, musi­cians from Aus­tralian bands The Urban Guer­ril­las, along with Dave Roberts, lat­er of Sex Gang Chil­dren, as well as Andy Groome and Mal­colm Bax­ter of Aus­tralian punk band The Last Words. Mon­ey was scarce. They earned about £6 a day deliv­er­ing leaflets and spent much of it drink­ing at the near­by Rail­way pub or attend­ing shows at the Moon­light Club.

Dray­ton began edit­ing a new zine, titled Kill Your Pet Pup­py, with the first issue pro­duced for Adam and the Ants’ New Year’s Day 1980 show at the Elec­tric Ball­room in Cam­den. 500 copies sold out that night and were reprint­ed. Now call­ing them­selves the Pup­py Col­lec­tive, the group pro­duced six issues through 1983 while Dray­ton also wrote for Record Mir­ror, New Musi­cal Express, and Zigzag.

In the sum­mer of 1980 Tony and Val moved into anoth­er WHHA prop­er­ty at 39 West­bere Road and this is where their world col­lid­ed with that of Jo Brock­le­hurst. One day, Brock­le­hurst saw the punks pass­ing her win­dow and was struck by their appear­ance. She invit­ed them into her stu­dio and began mak­ing the draw­ings that would become one of the most vivid visu­al records of the scene. Soon, the col­lec­tive, which includ­ed squat­ters from the Cen­tro Iberi­co squat in Not­ting Hill and the Wap­ping Auton­o­my Cen­tre, became reg­u­lar vis­i­tors and mod­els.

Inside the small stu­dio, the atmos­phere was incon­gru­ous and odd­ly cer­e­mo­ni­al. Punks in full regalia sprawled across sofas and chairs, drink­ing tea from fine chi­na while wait­ing to be drawn. One sit­ter remained motion­less, eyes fixed on the ceil­ing, bemused but qui­et­ly pleased that the artist down the street want­ed to draw her and her friends, lured in by the promise of bot­tom­less Earl Grey. This mix­ture of domes­tic calm, rit­u­al hos­pi­tal­i­ty, and rad­i­cal self-pre­sen­ta­tion became a recur­ring tableau in Brocklehurst’s West Hamp­stead stu­dio, where sub­cul­tur­al defi­ance briefly paused, posed, and was trans­formed into art.

Jo Brocklehurst Punk Fashion Illustration
Por­trait of Pup­py Col­lec­tive Mem­ber, 1981

They lat­er said her draw­ings trans­formed them into “war­riors,” ampli­fy­ing pres­ence and intent rather than sim­ply record­ing appear­ance. Brock­le­hurst’s con­tri­bu­tion was cer­tain­ly wel­comed by them, in a time when being punk was often a label whose mean­ings were decid­ed oth­ers. Lifestyle and image, and pre­sent­ing the lat­ter on their terms and in a way that made sense to them was cen­tral to the col­lec­tive.

“The way we live and the way we por­tray our­selves makes the world a bet­ter place, gives it a bet­ter atmos­phere, a more free and sen­su­al atmos­phere.” Tony Dray­ton once said. Brock­le­hurst, all too hap­py to oblige, also believed in the pow­er of shar­ing new per­spec­tives. “For me, the plea­sure in being an artist is not to build up a rep­u­ta­tion for doing the same thing, but to com­ment on dif­fer­ent kinds of lives.”

Just a few years before her encoun­ters with the Pup­py Col­lec­tive, Jo Brock­le­hurst was already mov­ing into the spot­light. Her first solo exhi­bi­tion took place in Ams­ter­dam in 1979, intro­duc­ing audi­ences to her sharply observed fig­u­ra­tive draw­ings. The real break­through came in Octo­ber of the fol­low­ing year with the inclu­sion of four of her works at an exhi­bi­tion titled Women’s Images of Men at the Insti­tute of Con­tem­po­rary Arts, a polit­i­cal­ly charged event that chal­lenged mas­cu­line stereo­types and fore­ground­ed fem­i­nist per­spec­tives in con­tem­po­rary art, the cul­mi­na­tion of a move­ment sev­er­al years in the mak­ing in response to an exhi­bi­tion of works by Allen Jones, whose art was crit­i­cized as depict­ing women in a demean­ing light. The artist, in response, iron­i­cal­ly cast him­self as a fem­i­nist, due to his focus on depict­ing the female form.

The show aver­aged some 1,000 vis­i­tors a day, break­ing all pre­vi­ous atten­dance records, with a line that ran from the ICA build­ing to Trafal­gar Square. Crit­ics not­ed the way Brocklehurst’s work in par­tic­u­lar com­bined psy­cho­log­i­cal inten­si­ty with wit, and more than one drew com­par­isons to Egon Schiele, an asso­ci­a­tion that would remain with the artist through­out her life­time and beyond.

The ICA show rapid­ly ele­vat­ed her pro­file. Along­side her skills as an artist, Brock­le­hurst devel­oped a strong affin­i­ty with women artists and fem­i­nist net­works, and her draw­ings gained atten­tion for their abil­i­ty to dis­man­tle mas­cu­line expec­ta­tions while retain­ing empa­thy and humor. Rid­ing this momen­tum, Brock­le­hurst exhib­it­ed at the Fran­cis Kyle Gallery in Lon­don in 1981 and 1982, fol­lowed by shows in New York with Leo Castel­li and at Con­necti­cut State Uni­ver­si­ty a year lat­er. The sub­jects of these exhi­bi­tions, punks, goths, New Roman­tics, and oth­er sub­cul­tur­al fig­ures, felt urgent and con­tem­po­rary, cap­tur­ing the body as both armor and per­for­mance.

Accord­ing to Brick­nall, the punk-era exhi­bi­tions with Fran­cis Kyle, despite sell­ing well, left Brock­le­hurst with a lin­ger­ing sense of dis­sat­is­fac­tion. The income allowed her to clear a mod­est mort­gage, yet she felt the work had been under­val­ued and, to an extent, mis­un­der­stood. Asked why their col­lab­o­ra­tion end­ed, Kyle offers a sim­ple expla­na­tion: she told him she had new state­ments she want­ed to make.

This was no sur­prise, as Brock­le­hurst resist­ed being boxed in and con­stant­ly sought to tell new sto­ries through her por­traits. She lived the artist’s life in the old sense, sell­ing work spo­rad­i­cal­ly to finance trav­el and mate­ri­als. At a time when the art estab­lish­ment kept its dis­tance from acknowl­edg­ing sub­cul­tures, she was drawn instead to them, treat­ing them as vital sub­jects worth trav­el­ing the world for rather than curiosi­ties to be panned by a bewil­dered press. She began trav­el­ing exten­sive­ly, the New York exhi­bi­tion in 1983 marked the begin­ning of reg­u­lar stays in the city as well as reg­u­lar trips to Berlin, Ams­ter­dam, Rome, and Paris, all while keep­ing detailed visu­al diaries, exper­i­ment­ing with mate­ri­als and envi­ron­ments, and refus­ing to sim­ply repro­duce the punk por­traits col­lec­tors expect­ed.

In New York, she sketched in the neon-lit gay clubs of the Meat­pack­ing Dis­trict, some­times incor­po­rat­ing spray paint and ultra­vi­o­let pig­ments, a cre­ative choice as well as a prac­ti­cal one, as the lat­ter medi­um was more read­i­ly vis­i­ble under club light­ing. Dur­ing this peri­od she is believed to have inter­sect­ed with the fem­i­nist col­lec­tive Guer­ril­la Girls, a group estab­lished in 1985 in response to an atmos­phere of sex­ism in the art world. The group assist­ed her with get­ting her work shown, in a time when it was still dif­fi­cult for many women to get shown in gal­leries. Addi­tion­al­ly, Brock­le­hurst formed a friend­ship with Kei­th Har­ing.

Wher­ev­er she went, she worked eas­i­ly in heat and dark­ness, whether it was sketch­ing in air­less Berlin base­ments or the dim inte­ri­ors of Ams­ter­dam’s seedy venues. She drew dancers, per­form­ers, and club kids in sec­onds, reduc­ing ges­ture to a deci­sive line while absorb­ing the atmos­phere around her. More than one observ­er through­out her life has described her abil­i­ty to draw in dark­ness, while also wear­ing mul­ti­ple pairs of dark shades, specif­i­cal­ly describ­ing it as some­thing akin to a super­pow­er. “I used to think, ‘How the hell can she draw in a dark club?’ But she could. Lat­er down the line I real­ized she had a gift.” Brick­nall said.

Over the fol­low­ing decades Brock­le­hurst became enmeshed in the inven­tive fetish under­ground that blos­somed in Lon­don dur­ing the 1990s, fre­quent­ing nights such as Tor­ture Gar­den and the Skin Two Rub­ber Ball at Stal­lions in Soho, which served as a meet­ing point for exper­i­men­tal fash­ion, per­for­mance, and music that also attract­ed both estab­lished design­ers as well as bud­ding fash­ion stu­dents from Brock­le­hurst’s alma mater of Cen­tral Saint Mar­tins, who would come to debut their lat­est cre­ations on the dance floor, their extreme sil­hou­ettes danc­ing along­side devo­tees of leather and latex. She con­tin­ued to refuse to be pinned down by age or expec­ta­tion, guard­ing her­self through her per­sona, and often vis­it­ing togeth­er with Isabelle Brick­nall, now a full-time design­er, and her oth­er friend, Amer­i­can anthro­pol­o­gist Ted Pol­he­mus.

Brock­le­hurst accom­pa­nied Brick­nall reg­u­lar­ly to under­ground gath­er­ings that, before becom­ing dilut­ed by pop­u­lar­i­ty, drew London’s most inven­tive fig­ures. As Brick­nall recalls, “Peo­ple were exper­i­ment­ing with clothes, music; there were per­form­ers like Empress Stah and the likes of Leigh Bow­ery, Rachel Auburn, Thier­ry Mugler and Jean Paul Gaulti­er; they couldn’t get enough of it! Jo would float around with her sketch­pads and her crayons and draw all the char­ac­ters there, from the sub­lime to the ridicu­lous and I mean ridicu­lous! Of course she had her dark glass­es and her blonde wig, which act­ed as a sort of bar­ri­er, as she didn’t want peo­ple to engage with her, although if some­one did both­er her she’d just raise an eye­brow and speak in her posh, Joan­na-Lum­ley-like voice, which meant it was time to sod off. It would often be my job to go off and find out who it was she’d actu­al­ly drawn.”

Isabelle Brick­nall, depict­ed by Brock­le­hurst dur­ing this peri­od as the “Rub­ber Angel,” had also shown off her work at the clubs. As one of her works, she designed futur­is­tic steel body armour with her boyfriend at the time, met­al­work­er Antho­ny Gre­go­ry, as ‘pro­tec­tion’ for women out on nights in the scene. Each piece was made specif­i­cal­ly with its intend­ed wear­er in mind, a group com­posed of cre­atives whose work spanned design, dance, and music.

Brock­le­hurst asked Brick­nall to mod­el the works and pro­duced lumi­nous draw­ings of her and oth­er club-goers in the armor using reflec­tive neons and metal­lic inks, includ­ing a par­tic­u­lar shade of pink so harsh that she insist­ed male artists were anx­ious to employ in their own work, trans­form­ing her sub­jects into fig­ures oth­ers have com­pared to clas­sic com­ic book super­heroes. She was espe­cial­ly proud of her por­traits of women, insist­ing, “I regard myself as a fem­i­nist and for this rea­son I have been very con­cerned to paint women to appear strong and con­fi­dent.” In anoth­er moment she has spo­ken about her female por­traits: “My women have an aura about them that puts them on the plane of a god­dess,” speak­ing in such reli­gious terms was no acci­dent of speech.

While sel­dom dis­cussed to any­one, Brock­le­hurst’s work also main­tained a spir­i­tu­al dimen­sion. Brick­nall recalled watch­ing her begin draw­ings in vibrant col­or while wear­ing dark glass­es; when asked how she worked so intu­itive­ly, Brick­nall explained that Brock­le­hurst “saw auras around peo­ple. On the fetish scene, she saw peo­ple as either angel­ic or demon­ic, and she’d rep­re­sent that.” This sug­gest­ed her work was always about reach­ing the deep­est lev­els of an indi­vid­ual, and pre­sent­ing the sub­ject in their truest form.

Jo Brocklehurst Punk Fashion Illustration
Por­trait of Isabelle Brick­nall and Antho­ny Gre­go­ry, 1995

The “Rub­ber Angel” and the armor she designed appeared at club events and at the Min­istry of Sound for the launch of Wired Mag­a­zine, accom­pa­nied by Brocklehurst’s paint­ings as part of a dig­i­tal exper­i­men­tal pre­sen­ta­tion. Brick­nall recalled wear­ing the first piece to the 1992 Skin Two Rub­ber Ball, admir­ers rushed for­ward assum­ing it was plas­tic, only to dis­cov­er cold steel beneath their hands, a shock that became woven into the night’s the­atri­cal awe.

Her engage­ment with the scene cul­mi­nat­ed in wider insti­tu­tion­al recog­ni­tion. In 1994 the Vic­to­ria and Albert Muse­um includ­ed a series of her fig­ure draw­ings in Street Style, acknowl­edg­ing the cul­tur­al sig­nif­i­cance of sub­cul­tur­al dress and per­for­mance. By then she was spend­ing increas­ing amounts of time in Europe, par­tic­u­lar­ly Ams­ter­dam and Berlin, con­tin­u­ing to car­ry her sketch­books through any new clubs and night venues she could find where fash­ion, rit­u­al, and per­for­mance con­verged. Across these noc­tur­nal stud­ies runs a con­sis­tent vision: fig­ures ren­dered with lumi­nous inten­si­ty, sus­pend­ed between sacred icon and under­ground arche­type, their bod­ies armored, adorned, and reimag­ined as vehi­cles of pow­er and self-inven­tion.

As London’s fetish under­ground matured, its visu­al lan­guage began migrat­ing into the main­stream. By the late 1980s and ear­ly 1990s, the run­ways were echo­ing the club floor: corsetry, rub­ber, metal­lic fin­ish­es, and fetish sil­hou­ettes appeared in the col­lec­tions of Jean Paul Gaulti­er and Thier­ry Mugler, con­firm­ing that what had once been cod­ed, noc­tur­nal, and sub­cul­tur­al now pos­sessed com­mer­cial and aes­thet­ic pow­er. Brock­le­hurst, a mem­ber of the indus­try her­self, once again turned her atten­tion to the broad­er fash­ion world as well.

From the late 1990s onward, her con­nec­tion to fash­ion edu­ca­tion deep­ened through her friend­ship with Howard Tangye, then head of wom­enswear at Cen­tral Saint Mar­tins. Tangye invit­ed her to teach life draw­ing to his stu­dents, intro­duc­ing a gen­er­a­tion of young design­ers to her uncom­pro­mis­ing eye and empha­sis on ges­ture, pres­ence, and char­ac­ter. In his Hornsey home stu­dio, Brock­le­hurst’s works report­ed­ly hang beside his own.

“She’d had a lot of hard bumps,” He recalls, “She wasn’t quite the pure Eng­lish rose, and I think she copped quite a bit of prej­u­dice.” He echoed oth­er peo­ple in that she “extreme­ly beau­ti­ful, mes­mer­iz­ing, but incred­i­bly self-con­scious about it. She would do any­thing to make her­self not beau­ti­ful.” Though she had rela­tion­ships, she nev­er mar­ried, and lat­er expressed regret at not hav­ing chil­dren. Teach­ing, how­ev­er, suit­ed her. Stu­dents respond­ed to her inten­si­ty and clar­i­ty of vision, accord­ing to Tangye.

Jo Brocklehurst Punk Fashion Illustration
Reclin­ing Bud­dhist Punk, 1981

Despite her grow­ing influ­ence, she remained immune to fame. Brick­nall recalled that peo­ple “would try and jump in front of her and get their pic­ture drawn in the clubs. Even with the fol­low­ing gen­er­a­tions, peo­ple like Alexan­der McQueen and John Gal­liano, who were around when Jo was a sep­tu­a­ge­nar­i­an. She became one of fashion’s best-kept secrets. If you were real­ly hip and hap­pen­ing, Jo would draw you.” Iron­i­cal­ly, she rarely knew who her sub­jects were; iden­ti­fi­ca­tion was often left to Brick­nall or oth­er friends.

Brock­le­hurst’s con­tin­ued time in con­ti­nen­tal Europe led her to find a more recep­tive audi­ence. “If you’re going to suc­ceed in the arts in any shape or form, some­times going abroad is eas­i­er, because you’re an unknown quan­ti­ty and you’re cel­e­brat­ed much more than in your coun­try of ori­gin,” Brick­nall observed. Accord­ing to her, Brock­le­hurst rel­ished Berlin’s atmos­phere before the fall of the Wall, which she con­sid­ered punk in spir­it. In Ger­many and Poland she was wide­ly rec­og­nized at arts fes­ti­vals even as she remained obscure at home. She devel­oped very close friend­ships with­in Berlin’s avant-garde cir­cles, “some real­ly out there types of peo­ple.” accord­ing to Brick­nall, and immersed her­self in the­atre, per­for­mance, and nightlife.

Her rela­tion­ship with the city cul­mi­nat­ed in work for Berlin­er Zeitung, where she served as artist-in-res­i­dence dur­ing the 1999 Berlin­er The­atertr­e­f­fen. The news­pa­per sought to revive a Weimar-era tra­di­tion in which the­atre reviews were accom­pa­nied by illus­tra­tions rather than pho­tographs. Each evening Brock­le­hurst attend­ed pre­mieres, sketch­ing from her seat in the dark as actors moved across the stage.

She then worked through the night pro­duc­ing large, vivid­ly col­ored draw­ings, vis­i­bly recall­ing the visu­al lan­guage of clas­sic expres­sion­ism, often up to A1 in size. She would then wake up to her works on the news­stands the next morn­ing, print­ed along­side reviews. Some images, includ­ing a macabre ren­der­ing of a pro­duc­tion of Maria Lazar’s Die Einge­borene (The Natives), a sur­re­al fusion of live the­atre and pup­petry, nev­er made it to print but sur­vives as evi­dence of her noc­tur­nal dis­ci­pline and expres­sive reach.

Jo Brocklehurst Punk Fashion Illustration
Unti­tled (draw­ing of the Spiegelzelt), 1999

Brock­le­hurst excelled at cap­tur­ing the body in motion. Beyond Berlin she doc­u­ment­ed bal­let and the­atre across Europe, from Poland to Turin, dis­till­ing ges­ture, ten­sion, and rhythm into elec­tric line and col­or. Whether in a fetish club or a the­atre pre­miere hours lat­er, she pur­sued the same objec­tive: to seize move­ment at the instant it becomes char­ac­ter, and to ren­der bod­ies not as sta­t­ic forms but as charged pres­ences.

Toward the end of her life, Brock­le­hurst began turn­ing her house at West­bere Road into a kind of pri­vate muse­um, fill­ing the rooms with her own work and arrang­ing it as an immer­sive envi­ron­ment rather than a sta­t­ic archive. Although she owned the prop­er­ty and was not in a des­per­ate posi­tion finan­cial­ly, she lived with strik­ing fru­gal­i­ty, giv­ing freely to friends while using min­i­mal heat­ing and han­dling repairs on her own.

Howard Tangye recalls one such moment: “Once, she’d built a lit­tle extra bit on to the back of the house, and there was a huge hole in the roof. When it rained it was like some­one had a show­er in there. I bought this big tar­pau­lin and we secured it on the roof, to at least keep out the water. She wasn’t both­ered about it. I was up there and we were try­ing to fix this tar­pau­lin, and this great wind blew up. We had enor­mous fun try­ing to fix this thing on the roof. Then I con­vinced her—I said, ‘Jo, I want to buy a cou­ple of your draw­ings.’ I bought two of her draw­ings, and with the mon­ey she got the roof fixed.” Sav­ing mon­ey, he not­ed, was nev­er the point of her life.

In her lat­er years she devel­oped a qui­et devo­tion to land­scape, fold­ing it into her life­long sec­ondary pas­sion of phys­i­cal fit­ness by cycling reg­u­lar­ly to Hamp­stead Heath. In all weath­ers she walked and sketched there, treat­ing the heath as her coun­try­side despite being, at heart, a city per­son. These works are strik­ing­ly dif­fer­ent from her large, kinet­ic punk por­traits: small in scale, atmos­pher­ic, and restrained, they trade elec­tric line for mood and air. She con­tin­ued the rit­u­al until the cold final­ly drove her indoors.

Between 2000 and 2002, after return­ing from an extend­ed stay in New York, she embarked on a vast, evolv­ing body of work that was part­ly an auto­bi­o­graph­i­cal reflec­tion of her club years and part Vic­to­ri­an fever dream. The walls of her home were crowd­ed with vivid fig­ures drawn from Alice Through the Look­ing-Glass, though each char­ac­ter bore the unmis­tak­able imprint of the fetish club.

Fas­ci­nat­ed by how Lewis Car­roll was a care­ful­ly con­struct­ed alter ego of Charles Dodg­son, she saw par­al­lels in the act of per­for­mance between him, her own life, and the atmos­phere of club­bing, thus titling the project Brock­le­hurst Through the Look­ing Glass. The stri­dent, elec­tric draw­ings con­trast­ed sharply with the lace table­cloths, fine chi­na, and del­i­cate after­noon teas she was known to serve to vis­i­tors through­out her life, stag­ing a col­li­sion between Vic­to­ri­an gen­til­i­ty and noc­tur­nal sub­cul­ture.

She had long been inter­est­ed in reveal­ing the fem­i­nine with­in the mas­cu­line and the mas­cu­line with­in the fem­i­nine, an idea that once struck many as eccen­tric. She encour­aged sit­ters to play dress-up, and the Alice series pushed this flu­id­i­ty fur­ther, blend­ing gen­der codes through cos­tume and pos­ture. Her deep knowl­edge of dress and anato­my allowed her to por­tray women as fear­less rather than pas­sive, charged with pres­ence rather than orna­ment.

In her stu­dio, draw­ings were set in frames inlaid with bright plas­tic gem­stones and hung across every avail­able sur­face, cre­at­ing a the­atri­cal set­ting for tea gath­er­ings that felt part salon, part dream sequence. Around the same peri­od she spent time on the south coast with a cousin, pro­duc­ing a hand­ful of unchar­ac­ter­is­tic seascapes that quite lit­er­al­ly shim­mered, as their sur­faces were dust­ed with glit­ter, a lin­ger­ing sliv­er of glam from her days at the clubs.

As part of her final major work, she placed an image of her­self as a child at its cen­ter as it expand­ed out­ward into hun­dreds of draw­ings reimag­in­ing Carroll’s char­ac­ters. The rest of the sub­jects were devot­ed club-goers dressed in hybrid Vic­to­ri­an and fetish attire, col­laps­ing time peri­ods and social codes into a sin­gle visu­al lan­guage. The project func­tioned as self-por­trait, cul­tur­al archive, and myth­mak­ing exer­cise all at once: a late-life syn­the­sis in which child­hood mem­o­ry, under­ground nightlife, gen­der play, and Eng­lish lit­er­ary tra­di­tion coex­ist­ed under one roof on a qui­et North Lon­don street.

The work took the form of an instal­la­tion inside her own stu­dio, a delib­er­ate­ly ambigu­ous Vic­to­ri­an draw­ing room that staged a dia­logue between restraint and excess, pro­pri­ety and sub­cul­ture, iron­i­cal­ly pre­sent­ed in one of her most inner­most and per­son­al spaces, as if a qui­et release of open­ness after a life­time of pro­nounced secre­cy. Friends who expe­ri­enced it under­stood it as a cul­mi­na­tion of her sen­si­bil­i­ty, and there remains a qui­et hope that it might one day be seen beyond that inti­mate cir­cle.

Jo Brock­le­hurst died on August 6, 2006, leav­ing behind a body of work that feels insep­a­ra­ble from the shad­owed inte­ri­ors and noc­tur­nal worlds she inhab­it­ed. There is still much about her life that has not been uncov­ered, if it ever will be. If her life was care­ful­ly veiled, her draw­ings were any­thing but: they pos­sess a clar­i­ty bor­der­ing on the inter­rog­a­tive.

Even such details as the text on shirts and but­tons would be pre­served, unashamed­ly polit­i­cal in nature such as “Amer­i­can Indi­ans died so you can eat ham­burg­ers” and “lovers of the world unite! awak­en the seeds of con­fu­sion. we are the minds agi­ta­tors”. Oth­er times, signs of the cul­ture were includ­ed, with ref­er­ences to bands of the time includ­ing Bauhaus, Japan, The Damned, Men­ace, Sex Pis­tols, Ado­les­cents, Blink 182, and Be Bop Deluxe.

Those who knew her describe a woman of con­tra­dic­tions: socia­ble yet pri­vate, impe­ri­ous yet ten­der, glam­orous yet deeply mod­est. Jack­ie Athram remem­bered her as “an orig­i­nal” who loved danc­ing and par­ties but reserved her deep­est devo­tion for work. Though she was reserved, Athram says even­tu­al­ly “she lost her shy­ness and, while remain­ing a pri­vate per­son, she blos­somed as her artis­tic abil­i­ty devel­oped and she cre­at­ed her own charmed world. As a friend she was loy­al and car­ing. She could be as impe­ri­ous as a war­rior queen, pas­sion­ate in argu­ment, but there was a strain of vul­ner­a­bil­i­ty to her, and above all she had a ten­der, gen­tle and gen­er­ous heart.”

Friends have sug­gest­ed she felt kin­ship with out­siders because she her­self was treat­ed as one ear­ly on in life. Despite her strik­ing nat­ur­al looks, she con­tin­ued to wear her dis­guis­es for most of her life, almost always includ­ing a blonde wig and sun­glass­es, like­ly as a form of retreat, hav­ing nev­er recov­ered from the ini­tial expe­ri­ence of being seen in such an exclu­sion­ary way.

Oth­ers knew her as a teacher that was exact­ing but trans­for­ma­tive. At Cen­tral Saint Mar­tins, she demand­ed dis­ci­pline and seri­ous­ness from stu­dents and mod­els alike, yet her gen­eros­i­ty and encour­age­ment left a last­ing imprint. She insist­ed that black was not a col­or until one had learned to draw, urg­ing stu­dents to under­stand struc­ture and chro­mat­ic force before rely­ing on dark­ness. She spoke obses­sive­ly about col­or the­o­ry and favored Elsa Schiaparelli’s “shock­ing pink,” a hue she con­sid­ered aggres­sive, elec­tric, and odd­ly gen­dered.

Even in her own line work she lay­ered tones before intro­duc­ing black at the very end. “Jo Brock­le­hurst was a tough taskmas­ter and I would often have to warn the mod­els of her expec­ta­tions. We lost a few, but all said after­wards they were glad to have had the expe­ri­ence and the results that had come out of it.” recalled Tangye, writ­ing her obit­u­ary for The Inde­pen­dent.

Nav­i­gat­ing the art world as a woman required strat­e­gy and defi­ance. She short­ened her name so deal­ers assumed she was an assis­tant to “Joe” rather than the artist him­self, a mis­un­der­stand­ing that amused her. Her draw­ings of men were thread­ed with pri­vate jokes and psy­cho­log­i­cal obser­va­tions, skew­er­ing van­i­ty and self-regard with qui­et pre­ci­sion. One exam­ple came in the form of a por­trait of Iggy, a male room­mate of Brick­nal­l’s, who she described as “a real trol­lop but very charis­mat­ic.” The por­trait ulti­mate­ly shows him look­ing at his own reflec­tion in a mir­ror – “a clas­sic nar­cis­sist.”

Her looks also meant that she need­ed to have the strength to turn down unwant­ed atten­tion. “She was gor­geous, which meant men were always try­ing to jump on her bones and she had to bat them off.” recalls Brick­nall. Beyond admir­ers and their advances, Brock­le­hurst’s strength extend­ed to a life­long resis­tance to prej­u­dice and expec­ta­tions, all of which she deflect­ed while con­struct­ing a self-con­tained world gov­erned by her own rules. “I often thought she lived in a kind of won­der­ment of the world, in anoth­er dimen­sion — it was nat­ur­al for her and we all looked on slight­ly stunned and just going along for the ride.” Tangye wrote.

Jo Brocklehurst Punk Fashion Illustration

Por­trait of Tony Dray­ton
, 1981

Since her death, Jo Brocklehurst’s work has rarely been seen. In Britain and around the world, much of her career remains strange­ly under-doc­u­ment­ed. Most of her work resides in pri­vate hands: friends’ homes, garages, and scat­tered col­lec­tions, while ongo­ing own­er­ship dis­putes and the absence of insti­tu­tion­al archiv­ing have left gaps in the record. Only a small num­ber of pieces entered pub­lic col­lec­tions, includ­ing hold­ings at London’s Vic­to­ria and Albert Muse­um, while most of the draw­ings remain with sur­viv­ing mem­bers of her fam­i­ly.

Her indif­fer­ence to the expec­ta­tions of the art mar­ket meant she sold lit­tle dur­ing her life­time, despite the sheer size of her out­put. Olivia Ahmad has not­ed that Brock­le­hurst was “incred­i­bly pro­lif­ic,” and that a por­tion of the work is thought to be miss­ing, adding a lay­er of mys­tery to an already elu­sive lega­cy. Even the lim­it­ed mate­r­i­al exhib­it­ed so far sug­gests a vast, still-unmapped archive and stands as a unique drawn record of punk from a vivid, per­son­al, and dis­tinct­ly female per­spec­tive.

Her wiry, flu­id line has often invit­ed com­par­i­son to Egon Schiele, yet despite her work trac­ing a lin­eage to ear­ly expres­sion­ism, the resem­blance is large­ly tech­ni­cal. Where­as Schiele’s fig­ures can feel intense or self-aggran­diz­ing, Brocklehurst’s sub­jects are grant­ed dig­ni­ty with­out spec­ta­cle. Her con­tort­ed pos­es, the­atri­cal ges­tures, and lumi­nous, arrest­ing eyes serve obser­va­tion rather than ego.

In spir­it she aligns more close­ly with doc­u­men­tary artists such as Diane Arbus or Mary Ellen Mark, and with the qui­et, posthu­mous­ly dis­cov­ered prac­tice of Vivian Maier: artists who placed their sub­jects first and them­selves sec­ond, attend­ing to those who lived beyond the mar­gins of polite soci­ety, and spar­ing no time for their own rep­u­ta­tion in life.

Friends recall her admi­ra­tion for women of con­vic­tion such as Leono­ra Car­ring­ton and Fri­da Kahlo, fig­ures who stepped out­side pre­scribed roles set for women. “She was aware of the impor­tance of her gen­der in being a doc­u­men­tary artist, because there’s a cer­tain trust afford­ed to women that means they can go places men can’t. Even though she could be quite an intim­i­dat­ing pres­ence – fab­u­lous look­ing and a lady of mys­tery – peo­ple were drawn to her like a mag­net.” Brick­nall says. She aban­doned a promis­ing career in fash­ion illus­tra­tion to pur­sue an uncom­pro­mis­ing project: doc­u­ment­ing those who val­ued free­dom over respectabil­i­ty, just as she did. On paper, her sub­jects radi­ate free­dom: indi­vid­u­als unapolo­get­i­cal­ly them­selves.

Isabelle Brick­nall described her as “the real deal,” draw­ing every day of her life with no con­cern for mon­ey or insti­tu­tion­al approval. “The art estab­lish­ment at that time wouldn’t have touched punks with a ten-foot barge­pole, but she saw some­thing there. She was ahead of her time.” accord­ing to Brick­nall. The draw­ings also func­tion as a cor­rec­tive to the famil­iar black-and-white pho­tog­ra­phy of punk’s ear­ly years.

Jo Brocklehurst Punk Fashion Illustration
Unti­tled, 1982

Brock­le­hurst saw the scene in puls­ing col­or, punc­tu­at­ed by unde­ni­ably human qual­i­ties of flushed cheeks, bulging veins. By iso­lat­ing her fig­ures from the chaos of clubs and squats and pre­sent­ed them to the view­er in front of a plain white back­ground, she grants them seduc­tive sub­jec­tiv­i­ty, leav­ing view­ers to con­struct their own nar­ra­tives for these strange, com­pelling char­ac­ters.

Her out­put was vast and inter­na­tion­al­ly exhib­it­ed, span­ning Ger­many, New York, Ams­ter­dam, and Lon­don. She exper­i­ment­ed con­stant­ly with col­or, move­ment, per­for­mance, and social envi­ron­ment, pro­duc­ing draw­ings that feel imme­di­ate, uncom­pro­mis­ing, and unmis­tak­ably her own. The line nev­er slack­ened; the dis­ci­pline of draw­ing dai­ly kept it alive. Whether by cir­cum­stances of birth and sur­round­ings or sole­ly through her incli­na­tion, she remained an out­sider with­in the art world, and one sens­es she pre­ferred it that way, per­haps even now.

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